![]() ![]() Reason is supposedly that the 'crud' on the screen starts falling off some while the engine is off and then allows enough flow for a short time after the engine is restarted until it clogs up again. After stopping the engine for around 1/2 hr it drives fine again for awhile and then the slipping starts again. I have heard stories about the pickup screen in the sump getting clogged after the atf gets warm-hot (operating temp), but usually that just cause a severe lack of atf flow and therefore cause slipping. ![]() namely the valve body and replacing the torque converter. The unfortunate part is, if you are correct with your suspicions, you will be removing the transmission and fixing what the shop didn't fix. This is why I decided to install the Translab kit from Superior Transmission. If the fluid is overheating, that means both the torque converter charge is compromised as is the flow to the cooler. If you suspect the fluid is overheating, this is a good place to start. maybe a laser thermometer and check your fluid temps leaving the transmission. Small cylindrical metal housing, if you search the forum there should be plenty of info about it. And I much prefer the paper copy of a manual anyways, I have numerous manuals in pdf format for other cars and it doesn't compare.Īre you sure you don't have this filter? it is factory installed on some cars newer than 2000, it is located behind the radiator in the trans cooler piping. They do come up from time to time in the classifieds here, so keep an eye on there. I ended up buying the factory manual and it is worth every penny. And if I don't find one, it doesn't exist. I searched all the usual suspects when looking for a pdf manual, and I didn't find one. I fixed battery drain issue (which last more than a year ) by simple measure after reading others post in this forum. i found this helpful forum.i am sure that i can fix it with your help. they checked the car and they said i have to put new transmission (they are cheaters -no ethics). how to reach them? i can do it my self, i have the required tools.do you have the service manual ? it will help me in this procedure.( i have searched the net but i couldn't find it). is it wise to remove the solenoid and check them?. probably after the transmission oil become very hot, i don't have in line filter (how to install this filter?) i am planing to drain the oil and to add AFT DW1 oil. ![]() the condition occur only when the engine reach its normal temp. the oil level is optimum, the (R-N-D-L1-L2-元) lamp is not blinking. Lastly, are you sure the MIL lamp (or CEL or whatever you wanna call it) actually works? Does it illuminate before you start the car (during the gauge check?) If you are mechanically inclined, check the resistance of each of the solenoids and maybe even apply 12v to the correct terminals to verify 'brisk' movement. Blow out your cooler lines, be sure no blockage exists in the intended return path. If you do have one, remove it and clean it. Most definitely in your case, I would locate the in-line filter or make absolutely certain that you don't have one. It puts the valve in a position that directs hydraulic pressure to the desired path. The actual shifting action from the shifter through the cable is a mechanical movement of a rod inside the main valve body. Have you checked fluid level, make sure you haven't leaked fluid out somewhere? It sounds like you are running out of fluid, then when the fluid gets there, it goes 'BANG' Only 28K on the rebuild, why not take it to the dealer service shop, at least see what they have to say about it? I'm sure they charged a pretty penny for the job, certainly a little over 28K should be expected. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |